Ross and I went on a two-week trip to the Red Centre (aka central Australia) earlier this month for our 5th wedding anniversary and my birthday; we had a fabulous time! We started off the trip by flying from Melbourne to Adelaide and picking up a camper van. We went with pretty much the cheapest option that we could find, so we ended up sleeping in essentially a tripped out mini-van for ten days. Now, as you all know, neither Ross nor I are very short so it was pretty cramped sleeping quarters and there was definitely a learning curve with setting the bed up each night and tearing it down in the morning before we could drive anywhere. All in all, it wasn't terrible but it wasn't great. For future trips we are either going to go back to our backpacking tent or we're just going to have to pony up and pay for a larger camper. Now on to the exciting stuff - central Australia!
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Uluru |
After picking up our camper, we drove from Adelaide to
Port Augusta. The two cities are only about 3.5 hours apart but the next real place to stop would have been Coober Pedy which is a further 5+ hours and we hadn't been sure how long it would take to get the camper, groceries, etc. Since it was a pretty easy driving day, we stopped by the
Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden after we had checked into our campground. Yes, Ross and I are those weird people who go to the desert and then go to the desert garden so that we can see all of the plants with labels. It was getting to be late afternoon by the time that we got to the garden, but it was really pretty and it was nice to get out walking after a flight and a couple hours in a camper.
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Kangaroos |


The next day we drove ~5 hours up to
Coober Pedy. Ross has wanted to visit Cooper Pedy since he was young; I first heard about it from Ross in March when we started planning this trip. It's a weird little town but the cool part is that, since it gets so hot in the summer (50 C = 120+ F), a good portion of the houses are built underground. As such, we stayed in a hotel that was underground (
Lookout Cave Underground Motel). It was fun and the sandstone walls were gorgeous. Since we'd arrived mid-afternoon, we went out exploring. We spent a decent amount of time at the Serbian Orthodox Church, which is all underground and is absolutely gorgeous. We also walked through the Umoona Opal Mine and Museum (the town was founded on opal mining), saw the spaceship from
Pitch Black (it just hangs out in the middle of town) and walked up the hill to check out the Big Winch. We also had the best pizza that I have had in the Southern Hemisphere at John's Pizza Bar and Restaurant. Seriously, it's amazing.
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This sign greets you as you come into Coober Pedy. |
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Our hotel room |
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Serbian Orthodox Church |
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Sandstone carvings at Serbian Orthodox Church |
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Spaceship from Pitch Black |
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The Big Winch |
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Ross admiring Cooper Pedy's first tree |
After a surprisingly comfortable nights sleep underground in Coober Pedy we hit the road again and, after ~8 hours on the road, we made it to
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park in time to see sunset on Uluru for my birthday. We ended up spending three nights camping at the
Ayres Rock Resort Campground, which is outside the park in the 'town' of Yulara. It was school holidays while we were on our trip so Uluru was pretty crowed but the scenery and hiking more than made up for it.
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Wild emus |
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Not far now... |
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Sunset on Uluru |
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Sunset on Uluru |
The first day that we were at the National Park we spent the entire day (sunrise to sunset) at
Kata Tjuta (aka The Olgas). We did both of the hikes in the Olgas and we absolutely loved the Valley of the Winds hike (~7.5 km). There weren't that many people around and it was so nice to walk through the canyons of red rocks. I honestly think that the day we spent in Kata Tjuta was probably my favorite day of the whole trip.
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Sunrise on Kata Tjuta |
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Zebra Finch |
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Sunset on Kata Tjuta |
The next day we spent all day (sunrise to sunset) around
Uluru. While you can still climb Uluru, we chose not too out of respect for the traditional owners of the land, the Anangu. Instead we spent the morning at the
cultural center and then did the walk around the base of Uluru (~10.5 km). We also did a couple side tracks to permanent waterholes and were rewarded with surprisingly lush settings and gorgeous rock art.
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It's cold at dawn in the desert. |
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Sunset |
Our last morning at Uluru we drove around Uluru (it actually offers a pretty different perspective from the walk) and then went back to Yulara to top up on groceries and write some postcards. From there we drove ~3.5 hours north to
Kings Canyon and Watarrka National Park. We spent three nights at the
Kings Canyon Resort and did all of the hikes around Kings Canyon. I really liked all three of the walks that we did as they were all quite different and gorgeous.
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Dingo |
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Australian Ringneck |
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Kings Canyon |
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Garden of Eden, Kings Canyon |
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Spinifex pigeon |
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Old cattle yard along the Kathleen Springs walk |
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Kings Creek walk |
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Kings Creek walk |
Eventually it was time to head south again, so we packed up and drove ~9 hours back to Coober Pedy. We again stayed in an underground motel (
The Underground Motel) and we also stopped by
Tom's Working Opal Mine where we were able to noodle (actual word for looking for opals) in one of the scrap heaps, for lack of a better description. We both found some small fragments of opal that will be added to our ever-growing rock collection.
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Our second underground hotel. |
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More wild emus |
From Coober Pedy, we made the 9 hour drive back to Adelaide. We got in Friday evening and returned our camper Saturday morning. Since neither of us had ever been to Adelaide, we decided to make a weekend of it. We stayed in an AirBnB in the CBD (aka downtown) and kept ourselves busy exploring the
Central Market (amazing Algerian food!),
Botanic Gardens (so many birds!),
South Australian Museum (great rock/minerals and Aboriginal sections) and the
Art Gallery of South Australia (there was an amazing Impressionism exhibit on while we were there). I also did the
ParkRun (free, timed 5k) on Saturday morning and we found a cool, art deco theater to go see the new Jurassic World movie one evening.
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Mural by our AirBnb |
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Mural by our AirBnb |
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Chinatown |
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Art Gallery |
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Botanic Garden |
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Australian Ibis |
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Eastern Rosella |
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Little Corellas |
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Rainbow Lorikeet |
Retrospectively, I kind of wish that we'd gone up to Alice Springs instead of spending the weekend in Adelaide but by the time we got back to Adelaide we had driven 3,800 km (2,361 miles) and I'm not sure if I could have handled much more time in that camper. That being said, the entire trip was great! The scenery was amazing, the hikes were awesome and we saw some great Australian wildlife (always a bonus in my book). If you ever get the chance to go to central Australia, do it! It is well worth the time and the effort that it takes to get there.
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